We all know the Dutch concept of Gezellig & Gezelligheid, don’t we? It’s an interesting concept, sometimes an adjective and sometimes an adverb. It can be gezellig in the waiting room of the Dutch dentist or doctor, which is by definition not a cosy place. Hard light, silent, clean, strong hygienic smell, sterile, the place where you can hear everyone’s breath since not a word is said. But if you meet the right person, somebody you haven’t seen in a while and you feel a strong connection to, then it can actually be supergezellig in the dentist’s or doctors’ waiting room. The Dutch concept of gezellig is however, fully applicable to the Dutch Brown bar, which are, by definition, Supergezellig!
So what is a brown bar? A brown bar is not per se brown, and doesn’t necessarily have to be dark, although if you ask me, that does add to it’s vibe. A brown bar isn’t actually defined by how it looks, but more by what it serves, and where. Preferably it’s in an old house, in the older part of any Dutch city. It’s impossible to have brown bar in a newly built neighborhood. So the city center of Amsterdam has many bars which will fit this picture perfectly, whereas Almere doesn’t since it was only created on new produced land in the 1960s. The brown bar preferably has dim light and a wooden floor, and wooden beams visible in the walls and the roof. That’s how you know it’s old. The term brown bar dates from the pre smoking ban. The smoke has changed the color of the whole space. Any Dutch bar should serve classic Dutch drinks like the larger Dutch beer brands and jenever. Add to this, whether it’s in Zwolle, Leeuwarden, Den Bosch, Nijmegen or Amsterdam, the local typical come along with a beer type snacks. Every city has it’s own speciality. But bitterballen are the number one go to.
Amsterdam possesses one of the largest old city center districts in the world. That’s because the city boomed in the 17th century, and in 1730 Amsterdam had around 230.000 inhabitants, whereby it possibly was the largest city in the world. Other contestants for this time in history are Paris, Istanbul & London. But all these inhabitants had to be served, so Amsterdam hosts an incredible selection of bars.
1. In de wildeman
This pub is my favorite. Central, great staff and an amazing, always fresh and up to date, beer selection. The owner Simon is great and this ‘proeflokaal’ or tasting room, breaths tradition. There’s no music, the snack menu is simple just like the interior, but oh gosh do I like this place. It’s like stepping into a muffy museum but this place is fun, vibrant, lively and only serves you the good stuff in the typical no-nonsense Amsterdam style.
Kolksteeg 3, www.indewildeman.nl
2. Cafe de Engelse Reet
I love Amsterdams alleys because you’re never sure what you’re going to find. As a visitor to a new city, you tend to avoid alleys since they’re dark, smelly and sometimes somewhat scary. In Amsterdam however, 9 out of 10 alleys are full of great boutique stores, cafes and creative offices. So go! Café de Engelse reet -Cafe the English Alley- is situated in the alley of the Begijnhof or beguinage, another gem in the city. This cafe defines what a brown bar should and must look like and how it should feel.
Begijnensteeg 4, open wednesday to saturday 12:00-00:00
3. Festina Lente
Situated in the South Jordaan, an often overlooked area of the Jordaan, this bar serves a younger, local and expat audience. Since it’s off the main tourists routes, is that brown bar which is damp and full in winter. Finding a seat is hard in this cosy living room in winter. But outside along the gracht in summer Festina Lente will always offer you a great serving.
Looiersgracht 40B, www.cafefestinalente.nl
4. Cafe de Wetering
Café de Wetering is one of those rare Amsterdam cafés that has quietly watched the city pass by for generations. Tucked just behind the Rijksmuseum, it has long been a meeting place for locals, artists, and museum visitors looking to step out of the crowds. The interior feels timeless, with dark wood, worn tables, and the kind of atmosphere that invites unhurried conversation. This is not a place for trends or spectacle, but for a good beer, a simple lunch, and the comfort of familiarity. In many ways, Café de Wetering reflects an older Amsterdam — informal, unpretentious, and deeply local.
Weteringstraat 37, open daily. 4PM to 1AM, fri-sat 2am & sun 10pm.
5. ‘t Arendsnest
Another beer geek gem. Thirty draught beers, all produced by Dutch brewers in the Netherlands. The eagle’s nest serves Dutch beer only, since our beer culture goes way beyond the Heineken Experience. You think the Belgians or Germans know how to brew beer? Think again! The staff at ‘t Arendsnest is trained, experienced and will help you choose whether you like sour, smoked, sweet, fresh, blond, light or crisp. Plus, you can get served right along the waters of Amsterdam’s Unesco World Heritage canal district!
Herengracht 90, www.arendsnest.nl
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Written by Ralph Deckers
Local Amsterdam Guide & Historian – Dutch Cultural Journeys
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