If you love Amsterdam but wish it were calmer, prettier, and a tat more authentic, welcome to Leiden — a canal city that feels like a hidden masterpiece. I have a deep affection for Leiden. Both my parents and grandparents hail from this city, and I was born in its academic hospital. My extended family—my aunts, uncles, and cousins—all reside there. My grandfather ran a truck body manufacturing business in Leiden. Each October 2nd, we enjoy hutspot at home, and on the 3rd of October, I would have a school holiday to partake in Leids Ontzet, celebrating the liberation of Leiden in 1574. My other grandfather crafted furniture in Leiden; some of his chairs and tables are still part of our home today. My parents met and married in Leiden as well. This city has so much to offer but is often unjustly overlooked.
Why Leiden is worth visiting
Leiden has everything people love about Amsterdam — canals, history, Golden Age architecture — but without the rush. It’s elegant, academic, peaceful, and full of character. Travelers often tell me it feels “like Amsterdam’s older, wiser brother” — just as beautiful, but calmer, more refined, and more intimate.
If you like cultural travel, canals, museums, and towns with depth and charm, Leiden will stay with you long after you leave.
A brief history of Leiden
Leiden is one of the oldest and most influential cities in the Netherlands, with roots dating back to the early Middle Ages. It grew around a Roman-era settlement and became a powerful medieval town thanks to its position at the junction of the Old Rhine and key watertrade routes. By the 16th and 17th centuries, Leiden had become a center of learning, industry, and culture — a city that shaped Dutch history in remarkable ways.
In 1574, Leiden famously survived a Spanish siege during the Eighty Years’ War. The relief of the city on 3 October became legendary: starving citizens were rescued by the Watergeuzen (Sea Beggars), and as thanks for Leiden’s endurance, Prince William of Orange founded Leiden University, the oldest in the Netherlands. The city flourished in the Golden Age, becoming a hub for weaving, printing, philosophy, and science. It was home to Rembrandt, the Pilgrim Fathers, groundbreaking scholars, and innovative medical and scientific thinkers.
On the 3rd of October 1574, the watergeuzen -Sea Beggars- made their entrance into Leiden and treated the locals to herring and white bread. The night before, they had inundated the surrounding polders, which in turn flooded the camps of the Spanish Catholic monarch’s army. The hired soldiers abandoned their position, leaving behind large pots filled with boiling water containing potatoes, carrots, and onions.
Still today, the people of Leiden mash these ingredients to create a delicious dish -Hutspot- that warms the hearts of everyone connected to Leiden each year in early October—whether they live nearby or far away but wish to honour this cherished tradition. The municipality of Leiden hands out herring & white slices of bread and the famous hutspot every 3rd of October, for free!
Today, Leiden remains a lively university city filled with canals, museums, courtyards (hofjes), and centuries of stories — a place where history feels alive in every street.
Must-See Highlights in Leiden
1. Rapenburg Canal
Often called the most beautiful canal in the Netherlands. Stately houses, old academies, and reflections that show Leiden at its most elegant. I always love walking here. The oldest Botanical garden, the Hortus Botanicus (see below) is found here too, as is the famous Japan-Sieboldhouse.
2. The Burcht (Castle Mound)
A circular fortress dating back to the 11th century. Climb the old stone walls for views across rooftops and spires. It’s likely the Romans built the first defensable mount here.
3. Pieterskerk & the Pilgrims
A quiet quarter where the Pilgrim Fathers lived before sailing on the Mayflower — a key link between Leiden and American history. Do not miss out on my favorite alley: Pieterskerk-Choorsteeg. This is the area where the fascinating Rembrandt days (see below) take place too every year.
4. Hidden Courtyards (Hofjes)
Leiden is full of hidden secret gardens and charming former almshouses. Step inside, and the bustling city suddenly transforms into a serene oasis of silence.
5. Leiden University
Founded in 1575 after the siege, Leiden has since remained a vibrant hub of scholarship and intellectual pursuit. Einstein lectured here; Spinoza’s revolutionary ideas were studied extensively here; Dutch science truly blossomed within its storied walls.
6. Museum Highlights
- Rijksmuseum van Oudheden — Egyptian sarcophagi, Roman treasures, Dutch archaeology.
- Museum De Lakenhal — Leiden’s Golden Age art and Rembrandt’s early works.
- Naturalis Biodiversity Center – Great for children!
- Hortus Botanicus — One of the oldest botanical gardens in the world (1590). But more imporantly, the first place where a tulip blossomed on Dutch soils.
- Sieboldhuis – For Japan enthusiasts, shedding light on the intimate relationship between Japan & the Dutch republic / the Netherlands.
7. Event Highlights
For the most up to date info on what’s happening in Leiden, check visitleiden.nl
- The Rembrandt days – Bringing Rembrandt’s days back to life, next 11 & 12 juli 2026
- 3 October Festival – Big historic celebration in Leiden commemorating the lifting of the 1574 siege — excellent cultural-tour highlight.
- Leiden Shorts (Short Film Festival) – Multi-day short film event with international entries. Every year around may.
The Best Way to Experience Leiden: From the Water
If there’s one thing you should do in Leiden, it’s a canal boat ride. Truth be told, any place you’ll visit during your time in the Netherlands, you’ll have to experience from the water. In Leiden the canals are narrow, charming, and deeply atmospheric — far quieter than those in Amsterdam. You glide under stone bridges, past old quays, historic warehouses, and courtyards you’d never see from the street. From the water, Leiden feels softer, older, and more romantic.
My family connection to Leiden
Leiden isn’t just a place I guide — it’s a place that shaped me. My parents and grandparents come from Leiden on both sides, and many of the stories I tell on tours come from my own family history. Going to the 3rd of October parade and fair was something I looked forward to a lot as a kid. Later on, the night of the 2nd of October became the place to be. I’ll walk you pass the shop of where my opa (grandfather), used to create chairs & tables, which is right behind the beautiful Rijksmuseum of antiquities.
Venture beyond the typical guidebooks and online resources to discover the early years of Rembrandt’s life, as well as the significant scientific advancements that took place in Leiden.
Walk with me, and I’ll turn every stone, canal and café into a story you’ll never forget.
Where to eat & drink in Leiden
A few great local stops:
- Bakery Water & Bloem – Hidden in my favorite alley (a must) of Leiden.
- Café de Vergulden Kruik – oldest Leiden café
- Bakery Jacobs – Dutch pastries and apple pie – my family’s favorite, especially around Sinterklaas
- Café de Bonte Koe – Late afternoon or evening drinks – great for ‘Borrelen’
How to visit Leiden From Amsterdam
Leiden is centrally located between Rotterdam, the Hague and Amsterdam. It’s close to Delft and Schiphol airport. Public transportation in the Netherlands is good.
From Amsterdam
- 25 minutes by train
- 30–35 minutes by car
- Perfect for a half-day or full-day visit
Leiden is a city of stories — elegant, historic, and full of character. With its quiet canals, world-class museums, deep academic roots, and gentle pace, it’s one of the most rewarding places you can visit in the Netherlands. And for me, with family anchoring both sides of my heritage here, it’s always a joy to share.
Discover more insights on the Netherlands here.
Written by Ralph Deckers
Local Guide & Historian – Dutch Cultural Journeys
